Japanese Saké Through the Vessels
“In recent years, Japanese saké has been enjoying widespread recognition all over the world, with culinary offerings beyond Japanese cuisine exploring innovative taste pairings to expand the rich possibilities of the brewed rice beverage.”
A Brief History of Japanese Saké
Japanese saké or Nihonshu, refers to a traditional alcoholic beverage made from fermented rice. Saké is deeply woven in Japanese culture; initially produced exclusively in imperial courts and temples as an offering to the kami (Shinto god), a practice dating as far back as the 12th century, and later taken to the streets for ordinary consumption during the Edo period. In recent years, Japanese saké has been enjoying widespread recognition all over the world, with culinary offerings beyond Japanese cuisine exploring innovative taste pairings to expand the rich possibilities of the brewed rice beverage.
Sashitsu sasaretsu describes the back and forth exchange of pouring sake, a code of etiquette and form of social bonding that is upheld in Japanese drinking culture. It is a common custom to pour for others as a show of respect - by placing two hands on the serving vessel (tokkuri) while the receiver holds the small cup (o-choko) off the table with one hand placed on the side and the other supporting the foot or bottom. Finally, as we bring the ochoko cups together for a toast, we say kanpai! (meaning ‘to empty your glass’) or otsukare-samadesu (meaning ‘to be tired’) a phrase often used in the workplace to show appreciation for team effort after a hard day’s work.
Utagawa Toyokuni I Making Top-quality White Sake (Taikyokujô Fuji no shirozake)
How Japanese Saké is Made
The base ingredients of Japanese saké are rice, water, koji (rice mould) and yeast. It is brewed through a complex and sophisticated process known as multiple parallel fermentation, where yeast converts sugar into alcohol, while at the same, starch is being converted to sugar. Rice grains undergo polishing before the fermentation process, which strips the individual rice husks of various proteins, minerals and fats found on the outer layer to create a clean, pure taste that is rich with umami flavour. The quality of saké is determined by how well the rice grains are polished before being made into saké, and the interplay between technical skill, water quality, and shaping the environment to allow the koji and yeast to work together effectively.
The Right Temperature to Serve Sake
Saké can be enjoyed in three different ways: hot, cold or room temperature. Typically, warmed saké (atsukan) is consumed during the cold winter months, while Japan’s hot and humid summers make cold saké (reishu) an ideal beverage. Premium saké is best enjoyed chilled or at room temperature, as the delicate notes and fragrance become heightened, however, different sakés each have their optimal temperature which should be taken into account when choosing the serving vessel. As temperature is so crucial to savouring the intrinsic character to the fullest, saké is best served in small cups so that they can be emptied before the taste becomes altered by the temperature change.
Like wine, saké comes in varying taste profiles - from sweet, dry, crisp to soft, and a wide range of vessel designs are fashioned to highlight their intricate nuances.
Magewappa Woodware
Magewappa-ware is crafted by bending and shaping thin strips of the Akita-sugi (also known as Japanese cedar wood). Aromatic and beautifully grained, the native sugi is highly prized for its naturally water-repellent and heat retention qualities. Magewappa-ware elevates the saké drinking experience, as one can admire the warm touch and natural grain of Japanese cedar while sipping slowly from the fragrant cup. As a saké vessel, magewappa-ware is ideal for serving both warm and cold saké, as the inner uncoated wood keeps the contents insulated to preserve the flavour. A sip of saké becomes imbued with the rich scent of Japanese cedar, and the wide opening of a magewappa cup delivers a rounded depth of flavours.
Porcelain Sakeware
Arita Porcelain refers to the famed porcelain ware founded in the small village of Arita in Saga prefecture over four hundred years ago. Arita Porcelain is distinguished by its translucent, natural off-white ceramic body crafted from Amakusa touseki, a porcelain stone which is mined off the local islands in the West Coast of Kyushu. Saké vessels made out of Japanese porcelain are ideal for savouring delicate sakés as the porcelain body softens the flavours, resulting in a milder taste. The contemporary range of Arita porcelain saké set is fired to achieve a half-matte texture, emanating a gentle creamy-white body and inviting warmth that makes it accessible for everyday use.